Ch 41, Day 3: Over the Meghri Pass

 28.7
kms, June 9, 2021

The
next morning the Traveler is off and ready to continue his hike. The
plan is to take local transportation to yesterday's stopping point
and continue walking from there. However, it doesn't seem like this
area has a whole lot of public transportation, so he opts for Plan B:
try to hitch a ride. This isn't working to well, as some drivers
apologetically gesture that they aren't going very far...

The
Traveler spots a tractor trailer that is dropping someone off, so he
walks over and to ask for a ride. It's a Iranian truck, but the
Traveler reasons with himself... Iranian people are friendly towards
Americans... it's just the government that's the problem... right?...

“Kajaran?”
he gives the name of the next city after his drop off point. An
older balding man nods his head. So the Traveler chucks his backpack
and guitar up into the passenger seat, then climbs up in.

And
so they are off, rumbling along at a painfully slow speed. When going
up hill, the Traveler figures he could walk faster than this. He
imagines how tedious it is for this fellow who does this for days and
days. “Yerevan?” he asks the driver. The driver nods yes. He's
hauling heavy construction equipment and and even though Yerevan is
just a couple hundred kilometers, at this pace it's going to take him
several days. The Traveler shows the Traveler a hand made map with
the name of the main cities along the way. It seems that's all he
has to guide him.

“English?
French? Arabic? Armenian? Russian?” the Traveler runs through the
languages that might be useful to this fellow driving
internationally.

“Farsi”
is the response, only Farsi. He asks the Traveler where he is from
and the Traveler decides to take a gamble and just tell the truth.
“American”.

The
driver gets a big smile on his face, and gives him a welcoming nod.

The
Traveler is touched by the gesture. Suddenly it hits him that this
driver very likely experiences personal hardship because of the
country the Traveler is from. Due to American sanctions, goods,
particularly oil, to and from Iran can't pass through certain
cooperating countries. Armenia allows goods to pass through freely,
so Iranian truckers have to take this torturously slow mountain route
to be able to export their oil. Surely this man has heard in over
and over in the media and propaganda how America wants to ruin his
country.

And
yet... when this Iranian finally meets an American in person, he
gives him a welcoming smile. This is a moment the Traveler remembers.

The
driver has a a pot of tea beside him and offers the the Traveler a
glass. There's a container with sugar cubes but no spoon. After a
failed attempt to mix his sugar, the driver shows him how to drink
tea “Iranian trucker style”. First: put cube of sugar in mouth,
second: drink the tea, letting it get sweetened in your mouth along
the way, and voila! Sweet tea, no stirring necessary!

The
Traveler wonders what happens if the driver has difficulties along
the way, as he doesn't speak any languages spoken her in Armenia. He
does notice that there is a camaraderie between Iranians along this
route, honking and waving at other drivers. He slows down when he
sees another driver stopped to see if he needs any help. They also
see a cheering sight: a whole convoy of Iranian tourists in cars, who
apparently just set up tents and camped by the side of the road! They
appear to be middle class folk, couples, who appear to enjoy this
“travel style” that you don't usually see in Middle Eastern
cultures. “Roughing it” is not something you do unless you're
poor and have no other options. But these Iranians seem to be
enjoying a low budget “camping vacation” through Armenia. The
driver seems to be humored by the sight as well, as he waves to them.

Finally
they reach the Traveler's drop off point, and he tries to pay the
driver for the ride. The driver absolutely refuses, another humbling
reminder that the Traveler is being treated better than he deserves
by a kind Iranian...

Up
to the Meghri Pass

Inspired
by this encounter, the Traveler continues on. Greeting people you
pass on the road isn't really a thing here in Armenia, but the
Traveler decides he's going to take in on himself to greet the
Iranian truckers he passes, to feel he shares in this camaraderie of
foreigners here in Armenia. Sure, he and these Iranians are from
countries that are enemies of each other, but here in Armenia, they
are all foreigners who don't speak the language of this country.

Sure
enough... all the drivers wave back to him...

He
climbs higher and higher. He had thought that this 1800 meter climb
was going to be exhausting, especially carrying his full gear this
time. But he actually feels energetic as the road zigzags higher and
higher, giving him a better and better view of the valley he climbed
up yesterday... a wooded uninhabited valley continuing a bit farther
in the other direction... a view of the mountains behind Lichk, with
still clouds always swirling about them... It was a wonderful day and
a half spent experiencing the Meghri Valley, but now he his eager to
continue on. Here, in the shade of one last tree, the Traveler stops
for a break. This time he wisely brought food along, to not go
hungry like he did yesterday.

He
looks up, and it appears that he could climb straight up to the
hillside to where he'll meet up with the highway again, as he sees
truck driving back and forth up above, so he sets out to blaze his
own trail up the steep grassy slope. But alas... after an exhausting
climb, he finds that the trucks he say were taking a dirt road to a
quarry somewhere... so he has to head back downhill to reconnect with
the road again. A bit of wasted effort, but no big deal, he tells
himself.

His
weariness is soon forgotten as he sees that the Meghri Pass is right
up ahead and the tiresome climb is finally over. Here is a gentle
grassy ridge, with a grand panoramic view in all directions.

There's
something very special about reaching a mountain pass on foot, the
Traveler realizes. First, there's a sense of accomplishment at
having made the arduous climb—and the relief knowing it's going to
be downhill now. But there's also a sense of closure as you bid
farewell to one river valley civilization and hello to another. And
here the Traveler gets the sense the his next valley to explore is
going to be a very different experience.

Looking
back, the Meghri Valley seems a bit wild and untamed. Mostly
undisturbed forests along the slopes and only a scattering of hamlets
along the way. Up ahead is the Voghji Rive Valley. Here, the
mountains are mostly treeless, suggesting humans have had more of an
impact on the environment. And directly below, way down the
mountainside, the Traveler can already see that there's an actual
city with big buildings down there. This gets him excited. He's
ready to experience city.

Crossing
this pass there are also several rows of high voltage electric lines.
Normally this sight might mar the beauty of the environment, but
after giving it a little thought, he quickly starts to see these
electric lines in a different light: these wires carry electricity
from Europe to Asia. From a historic Christian Empire to a historic
Muslim Empire. They connect to worlds that many think are sworn
enemies of each other, but in reality, there is a lot of cooperation
going on.

“Armenia
exports electricity to Iran, and they export oil to us” he is later
told. These lines continue on in both directions, connecting with
other countries like Georgia, Russia, and yes, Azerbaijan in one
direction and Pakistan, Afghanistan, Iraq in the other. These wires
are a reminder that, despite the percieved differences, in this
modern world, we are all interconnected, and if the line is severed,
everybody loses. So even though there was a war not far from here
just a few months ago, and even though Iran is under international
sanctions, electricity still continues to flow through this part of
the world.

The
Traveler takes another moment to soak it all it, takes his official
selfie crossing the Meghri Pass, and begins his long descent.

The
Prosperous Mining City of Kajaran

It's
a fun downhill walk. Through the uninhabited highlands getting a
better and better view of the intriguing narrow Voghji Valley below.
Cars and trucks take it slow, making the Traveler feel a bit safer.
He does get a glimpse of the remains of one car that didn't make it
and plunged over the precipice. Along the way there are little
shrines dedicated to folks who have died on this route. One of them
has a etching of a truck...

One
thing the Traveler notices many times in Armenia is that, next to
some shrines there might be a shaded picnic table, a water fountain
or a pipe bringing spring water out of the mountain. He wonders, is
this a way of memorializing the deceased, to leave something that is
useful and appreciated by many who pass by?

He
finally is able to ask an Armenian, and she confirms this “it's a
way to give a message that this person continues to be generous, even
after their death. However, this is only done when a man dies, not
for a woman” she clarifies. “It does waste a lot of water,
though, as the water fountains run constantly”

The
Traveler does appreciate this insight into Armenian culture—as well
as how this benefits him personally. It definitely cuts down on how
much water he has to carry, knowing he will most likely find a water
fountain shrine not too far down the road. He agrees that having
these fountains turn off when not in use would be a better idea...

He
passes an abandoned building. It is covered with graffiti in Arabic
script and wonders, is this from Iranian truckers just bored and
writing random stuff? Are they venting, criticizing their
government? Criticizing Armenia? He takes a picture of it, hoping
to get clarification from an Iranian.

Finally
he reaches the first outpost of civilization of this valley: a rustic
farmhouse with a large garden and crops being grown on the hillside.
The Traveler wonders what life is like for these hardy folks—and
the drivers crossing this dangerous pass, come wintertime.

But
it is not small scale farming that drives the economy of this valley.
He reaches a place where whole side of a mountain has been sliced
off, with a one dump truck after another hauling rock and dumping it
over the edge on this long slope of scree. Further up the narrowing
valley, he can see another enormous scar on the mountainside, right
below what would otherwise be a beautiful postcard perfect mountain
panorama with patches of perennial snow on Mt Kaputjugh.

Normally
this scene might trouble the Traveler, seeing the landscape “ruined”
by a huge open pit mine. But after his experience yesterday, seeing
the semi-abandoned towns of Meghri Valley, hesitates to make a
judgement call.

Which
is better? He wonders. Beautiful, undisturbed nature where everyone
is poor and civilization is crumbling? Or a place with partially
disturbed nature, but productive with a sustainable economy that
allows people to live decent lives and not have to emigrate
elsewhere?

Many
people would say the “natural environment” is better. But are
these people hypocrites? The Traveler wonders. After all, nature
lovers are just as dependant on minerals and metals used to make
their tools, cars, computers and endless gadgets that help them enjoy
their lives as everyone else. Where do they expect those minerals to
come from?

Right
next to the mine is the city of Kajaran, just a couple of
blocks wide, but very dense, with rows of Soviet style apartment
block packing in as many people as it can into a very limited space.
The Traveler is actually excited about seeing his first
“Soviet-style” city of this Journey. He remembers in his
childhood having this image of miserable Soviet folks living in
depressing, tiny generic apartment blocks—such a contrast with the
“happy lives” folks in the “free world” live...

Now
is his chance to start to see if this anti-communism propaganda he
was raised with stands up.

Finally
the road plunges into the narrow streets of this city, with lumbering
Iranian tanker trucks trying to squeeze their way through. The
Traveler looks around. Yes, the apartments do look pretty small and
shabby, but the streets are alive with people young and old walking
about the shady streets... there are plenty of well stocked shops.
No abandoned buildings any where. This place is clearly very much
alive.

He
notices another thing: hardly any old Russian Ladas. Instead you see
Mercedezes and Toyotas in decent shape. Clearly the economy here is
very different than the other side of the mountain.

Perspective
is everything, the Traveler quickly realizes. Had he come to Kajaran
straight from some place like Switzerland, he would certainly see
this place as poor, depressing and run down. But coming from Meghri
Valley, this place might as well be Monaco.

But
how does it work? He wonders. He had the idea that, after the
Soviet collapse, industry collapsed in the former Soviet republics.
Besides, this mining town is in Southern Armenia, which is barely
hanging on to the rest of the country by a thread... with Azerbaijan
able to cut off its lifeline to the rest of the country at any
moment! What is really going on here in Kajaran? He hopes to be
able to find someone who can give him some answers.

For
now he contents himself with taking a stroll up the main street,
resting on a bench next to a pleasant fountain. All around are
clusters of older men, just sitting and chatting. But as school is
letting out, it becomes clear that this spot is popular with the
younger generation as well. He sees a lot of teenagers, dressed up
in the latest fashions, joking and chatting together.

A
couple blocks up, and he reaches a large modern building, and the
entrance to the mining complex. It would be nice to get a closer look
at what all is going on here, but it doesn't look like that's going
to happen.

There
are a couple of small fast food joints along the way, but the
Traveler is hoping to find a REAL restaurant—like the one in Meghri
to reward himself with a fine, upscale 5 dollar lunch. Sure enough,
he reaches a large restaurant with nothing but new SUVs parked
outside. He goes inside, knowing he looks really out of place with
his scruffy backpack and guitar, but no one seems to notice. At
another table is a large group of very well dressed men that make the
Traveler think of the Italian Mafia for some reason...

A
waiter in a fancy suit brings the Traveler the menu and... sure
enough! You can still get a main dish for under 5 US dollars! The
Traveler decides to go all out... ordering a smoothie, salad...
dessert... and... stewed rabbit for five dollars?! Yeah, I'll take
that!

He
feels a little guilty as is brought to him what appears to be an
entire rabbit in the stew as he's barely able to finish all the food,
wondering how this restaurant (and whoever raised that rabbit!) can
make a profit with these prices. All in all, his tab is still under
10 US dollars.

Part
of him wants to linger here and soak in life in a prosperous Soviet
Era mining town. There is an old Soviet hotel (although he later
learns it's used to house workers)... but in the end, he decides to
continue on down the road and put in a few more hours of walking.

He
heads east, as the road follows the Voghji River. Traffic is
heavy—it seems much of it is commuter traffic as folks head home
from work in the mines to who knows where. Finally Kajaran proper
comes to an end and the homes go from apartment blocks to the more
typical walled in single homes surrounded by a garden. The village
of Lernadzor does still have more of a prosperous feel than
the Meghri valley villages though. Following a winding road through
this village, a local stops him and says that this isn't a through
way—he should go back to the main road. According to Google Maps,
there should be a way through this route... but he decides to not
argue and go back. It would be pretty embarrassing if it turns out
the guy is right...

Dusk
is setting in as he continues on. It looks like he's not going to
make it to the next town with lodging, Kapan, so he decides to accept
the next time a driver offers him a ride, and then come back tomorrow
and pick up where he left off.

Sure
enough, within minutes three guys in a Russian jeep like vehicle
stop, and he hops in.

Supper
with the Mine Workers

The
driver is a younger, cheerful fellow who speaks decent English. Two
older fellows sit in the back. The Traveler is very happy he finally
can have a normal conversation with someone.

“You're
not afraid to get in the car with us?” the fellow jokes.

“Don't
think I need to be afraid of people here in Armenia”! is the
Traveler's response.

“Oh,
I pick up tourists walking a lot” the driver says, “I still can't
figure out though: why, if you come from a country where you can be
so comfortable, you guys choose difficulty? Like walking instead of
riding?”

“Maybe
because, if someone experiences to much comfort and ease, they get
bored and life starts to lose its meaning, so you look for pain and
difficulty to try to make your life exciting again”.

The
driver accepts that explanation. Then it's the Travelers turne to ask
questions. “So do you work for the mining company?”

“Yes,
we come from Yerevan to work here”

To
go from the country's capital to a a mining town in the middle of the
mountains to work?! This is very intriguing. It's almost always the
other way around...

“I
see a lot of nice cars here. So is the pay good here?”

“Yes,
the pays is quite good. There is a shortage of housing in Kajaran. A
lot of people commute from Kapan and other towns—even from Meghri”

The
Traveler wants to figure out a way to ask why people are paid
well here... since paying workers well doesn't seem to be the norm
here in Armenia. “I've seen that a lot of industry from the Soviet
times has been abandoned. How is it that this mine has kept
running?”

“It
was abandoned for a couple years after independence. Then it was
privatized and started again. A German company invested in this mine
and part of their conditions was that the workers be well paid here.”

Hmmm...
very interesting clue here. So... foreign meddling in order to gain
influence over a mine and local resources can actually... make
people's lives better than they would be otherwise? This is a very
interesting and counterintuitive thought. Suddenly this mine that
has created a pocket of middle class folks in an otherwise quite poor
country overall takes on a whole new meaning.

“So
did you guys move here with your families?” the Traveler asks.

“No,
our familes stayed behind. I guess it makes it more of an
adventure—to be far from your family”.

The
Traveler suddenly realizes that they have veered off of the road to
Kapan and are going to up a quiet side valley. “First were going
to stop and have some supper before we go to Kapan” the Traveler is
informed.

This
is what he will dub an “Armenian kidnapping”. It's when you hitch
a ride and you get taken to someone's house against your will to be
fed a meal before you're taken to where you want to go. As
kidnappings go, the Traveler finds he kind of likes the Armenian
style kidnapping the best...

The
reach a large house. This is where the two older guys live. “I
like to live in the city” the driver says. “here you don't get
good internet access”.

Here
there's a meal waiting for them. They fellows hire a local lady to
clean and cook for them, so they can have a hot dinner when they
arrive. The Traveler is served a bowl of delicious soup along with
lavash, a flat bread that reminds the Traveler of a Mexican
flour tortilla.

The
subject—as very often happens here in Armenia—turns to politics
and the conflict with Azerbaijan. But unlike many others, the driver
doesn't express hatred for Azerbaijani people. “I don't have
anything against the people. If I met someone from Azerbaijan, I
would treat him like anyone else. It's their government and it's
propaganda that's the problem.”

The
fellows express discontent with the way their government handled the
situation and are hoping that the upcoming snap election will bring
about a change. “if we continue with the same president things are
going to get worse”.

The
Traveler gets the feeling that, while people are joking, working,
eating and living their lives in this region, deep down there's a
real feeling of uncertainty as they have no idea what the future
holds for their region and country. No one pretends that, even with
the Russian brokered ceasefire, the problem has been solved and isn't
going to get worse in the future.

All
it would take would be for the Azeris to set up one roadblock on a
stretch of highway that they already control, and Kajaran, the mine,
and all the people who work here would pretty much be cut off from
the rest of the country. This surely must be weighing heavily on
people's minds here.

Finally,
the “kidnapping” ends and the Traveler is given a ride the rest
of the way to Kapan, where he bids his new friend farewell... and
settles in for the night.

It's
been a very interesting 3^rd day here in the mountains of
Southern Armenia.