Travel notes 2021

  The Traveler stands there, transfixed by what he is seeing. Soaking in the rich symbolism of this place. Right across the road is a barb wire fence. On the other side of the fence a river, the Aras River. On the other side of that river? The great nation of Iran, a.k.a. Persia. This river, the Traveler realizes, is what separates Asia and Europe. It is the boundary between Muslim Iran and Christian Armenia. And just a few decades ago it was the boundary of the the Soviet Empire and the rest of the world. Once again, the Traveler feels that urge to try to cross to the other side. To experience the country that many travelers have decribed as the most hospitable and welcoming country in the world, rich with thousands of years of history and culture. One of the world's first great empires and great civilizations. He has gotten just a taste of that warmth and hospitality, riding alongside Iranians on his trip to this border. They smiled broadly when he told them he was an Am...

37.4 kms, June 8, 2021 The next morning the Traveler is up early, eager to begin seriously exploring this country and this continent. He really wants to do this segment of the Journey entirely on foot—however he will bend the “continuous hike” rules a little. Today he plans to leave his backpack at the hotel... hike for a day... then hitch a ride back and enjoy another dinner at a the nice restaurant and a night in a comfortable bed. Then tomorrow he will hitch a ride up the road and pick up where he left off. That's the plan, anyways. All is quiet as he walks up the road alongside the Meghri River. Here the Meghri Valley is narrow, with steep slopes on each side. Seems like an unlikely place to build a town. And this isn't just any random town either. Meghri—he later reads—has been inhabited for over 2500 years and in 987 it became part of the kingdom of Syunik. However, from the 12 th the the 15 th century it was invaded and destroyed repeatedly by Seljuk, Mongol and o...

  28.7 kms, June 9, 2021 The next morning the Traveler is off and ready to continue his hike. The plan is to take local transportation to yesterday's stopping point and continue walking from there. However, it doesn't seem like this area has a whole lot of public transportation, so he opts for Plan B: try to hitch a ride. This isn't working to well, as some drivers apologetically gesture that they aren't going very far... The Traveler spots a tractor trailer that is dropping someone off, so he walks over and to ask for a ride. It's a Iranian truck, but the Traveler reasons with himself... Iranian people are friendly towards Americans... it's just the government that's the problem... right?... “ Kajaran?” he gives the name of the next city after his drop off point. An older balding man nods his head. So the Traveler chucks his backpack and guitar up into the passenger seat, then climbs up in. And so they are off, rumbling along at a painfully slow speed. ...