CHAPTER 34: BLACK SEA (Turkey)

 24.6
kms, Oct 2, 2012


The
last couple of Chapters of the Traveler's Journey have been intense.
In each country the Traveler has been in, he's felt this pressure to
try to understand and fully experience a very complex and unique
culture in a very short amout of time. Trying to grapple with these
complicated histories and conflicts has been deeply moving... but
exhausting as well. Sometimes he wishes he could just wander for a
while and not think too much. Not feel he's always on a deadline.


Well,
this next country will provide him with just that opportunity.
Turkey is a large, inexpensive and wanderer-friendly country with
good food and convenient lodging everywhere. It's a country he wants
to stroll around in in a relaxed fashion—not feeling he needs to
come up with an earth-shattering discovery every single day.









He
will spend a whole 5 chapters of his Journey here in Turkey,
traveling across it from east to west... than east again... west
again, until he has experienced every corner of it. He will find a
predictability and sameness throughout the country. But he's ready
for some predictability. Surely there will be meaningful insights in
this nation that once was the seat of power of much of the Islamic
world and beyond. Other days, it will just be a walk through town,
interrupted by delicious snacks along the way.


Welcome
to Turkey


Reaching
Trabzon



Trabzon
is the first large city the Traveler encounters, coming from the
east. 3/4s of a million people tightly packed between the mountains
and the Black Sea. He begins his walk through town before sunrise,
but there are already enticing eateries beckoning to him. He ends up
eating breakfast 4 times... a delicious bowl of corba soup... a
delectable pastry... a Turkish doughnut from a well dressed street
vendor... his favorite Turkish breakfast menemen, scrambled
eggs with tomatoes. Few countries in the Middle East—or the
world—can compete with Turkey in terms of delicious food, readily
available everywhere.



He
finds a plaza to strum his songs in. Nearby high school boys chat as
they wait for time to go to school. Here for the most part he is
left alone. Turkey is more of a mind your own business country,
unlike most of the other countries he's traveled through. He doesn't
mind. Right here he just wants sometime alone.



He
walks along the long pedestrian street... then to the walls of the
ancient castle. Inside men are relaxing in the shade, near the
statue of one of the greatest Ottoman rulers: Suleyman the
Magnificent.



He
continues on down the road, past generic apartment blocs. A big
chunk of land has been reclaimed from the sea, but it seems it's only
being used as a park, for some reason... Finally there's barely room
between the sea and mountains for a while... up around a bend, and
the Traveler finds himself in another cheerful city, Akcaabat, built
on the steep slopes, with its own bustling center...





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