Ch 35, Day 7: A Disappointing City





15.3
kms, Sept 9, 2006








When the Traveler
approaches Bursa, he immediately knows that he is no in Turkey's
hyper-industrialized Northwest. Not one, but two car factories
stretch out on both sides of the highway. The Traveler still decides
to walk to the city itself, which can be seen on the mountainside up
ahead.






He gets tired of
following the highway, so he opts for a side road... which takes him
through a village... along a canal...past a city dump and through
some farmland... and still no city!






Finally as dusk settles,
he reaches a rather grimy neighborhood which part of Bursa proper.
Here he hears the hum of machinery everywhere. Everywhere he looks
he sees small factories and workshops behind rusty metal and
weathered wooden doors. Sometimes he can peer into the dim interior
to see big cutting machines, or piles of jeans or other items.






The Traveler is curious.
This is obviously a modern, industrialized city. And yet the sleek,
multi-national factories have not replaced the back alley workshop.
Bursa has plenty of both. These “small scale industries”
sub-contract work from the big industries, and it seems both are able
to flourish side by side. Studies have been done specifically about
these Bursa industries, and a book has been written about it.
Clearly the Traveler isn't the only one to find this intriguing.






Will this be a trend in
the future? Will small industries be able to flourish in a world
increasingly ruled by big corporations?






On the flip side is
another question though. Many times big companies (who have a
reputation to protect) will subcontract work to obscure companies who
pay very little and have terrible working conditions. This way when
there are horrible workplace accidents and abuses, these big
companies will still be off the hook...






Quite frankly, these
dingy back alley workshops here in Bursa do not look like very good
places to earn a living...






The Traveler finally
reaches the “heart” of Bursa but it still mostly feels like a
gray, uninspiring city. Climbing up the steep mountainside, there is
beautiful wooden covered bridge over a rushing stream... and the
iconic hexagonal blue tiled mausoleum of the Ottoman Sultan, Yesil
Turbe...






Down at the base of the
mountain, the Traveler does find a large park, with the busts of all
the Ottoman Sultans. This is unusual to see here in Turkey. In most
cities you will find a statue of Ataturk, and only Ataturk.






Bursa was at one time the
capital of the Ottoman Empire. But very little is left of that old
Ottoman feel... just a few scattered buildings here and there...






The modern day theme and
raison d'etre of this city is clear: industry. Lots of
industry.






Day 4: Approaching
Greater Istanbul


22.2
kms, Aug 31,2010






Not wanting to trek back
to the main bus station, the Traveler gets on a random mini-bus to
see where it will take him. It only goes as far as the edge of the
town, but the Traveler decides to make the best of it and wander
around a bit. Here the city abruptly ends, and steep, rugged
mountain landscape begins. It is comforting to see untouched nature
so close to such a grimy industrial city.






He is not alone. Mostly
older men come here to hike and escape from the city... the Traveler
follows a rocky gorge for a short ways... then decides to head on
back. This will not be a mountain climbing day.






Next is Gemlik, which
is very un-Gem-like... Built on the shore, the smell or raw sewage
permeates the air by the coast.






Here a couple of young
shoe-shiners join the Traveler for his sea side concert, more
interested in making money than in music. The Traveler has noticed
children working here in Turkey several times, and wonders what
efforts are being taken to eradicate child labor...






He then tries to climb to
the top of the the hill for a panoramic view. No luck... as is
typical here in Turkey, hilltops are more often then not, off limits
military bases...






Further up the road he
reached Ortansihar, with a lone statue of an Ottoman sultan
and an old Turkish bath, otherwise a very standard town. Overall, a
rather disappointing day.



Location: Bursa, Turkey

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