Travel notes 2021

  28.5 kms, July 30, 2021 The Traveler wants to soak in the guesthouse experience as much as he can. And the next morning his host is eager to talk—and show him around. The Traveler wonders how typical his story is: the fellow went to work in Germany for several years as a truck driver. He saved up money and it seems has figured out ways to make money here in his own country. He has a house in Kutaisi—but it's clear his real love is here in his mountainside home. He shows the Traveler his vineyard where he grows grapes to make his own wine. Then he shows the Traveler his beehives that he used to make honey which he uses for his own distillery to make his own vodka. Even though he doesn't depend on these things to be able to feel his family, he does seem to have that “pioneer spirit” preserving those important skills needed to live off the land. ...Although “living off the land” here in Georgia seems to mean, first and foremost, being able to produce your own alcohol! “ I ev...

  27.2 kms, July 31, 2021 Up until now, the Traveler has done well following the advice of Google Maps as it's led him across Armenia and Georgia. But according to Google, he'll have to make a big loop back south in ordder ot continue north towards the High Caucasus. But it looks like there should be a direct route north... So he tries the old fashioned way: ask the locals. They confirm that, yes, you can follow back roads up over a ridge to the north and down into another valley. And so he does. After a delicious fit-for-a-king breakfast, he bids his kind host farewell, and heads up the quiet road over the ridge, past more down to earth rural homes, with big elevated storage rooms to protect their harvest. Here in the wetter highlands it seems corn is the crop of choice—in contrast with wheat in the drier lowlands. However the Traveler hasn't seen many Georgian foods that contain corn, so he's not sure what they do with it. Over the ridge at the village of Sanorch...

  24.6 kms, Sept 17, 2021 The Traveler wakes up next morning excited about today adventure—even though he still isn't sure if the road ahead is open or not. Either way, he is going. He heads out through town, enters the Gateway to Svaneti to “conquer” this unconquered land. It's a sunny day—still a bit on the warm side, but the Traveler doesn't mind. He knows high altitude is coming, and he's looking forward to it. He soaks in the beauty of the rugged gorge—taking a little sidetrip to explore a cave with a spring coming from deep inside. Finally he reaches his first Svaneti hamlet, a couple houses squeezed bet ween the road and the river. Here his is pleasantly surprised to find a nice little cafe by the road that is open. Definitely can't pass this up, so he heads inside. As the cheerful owner prepares him a cappucchino, she asks an odd question. “ Habla Espanol?” This definitely catches the Traveler off guard. He's often asked if he speaks Russian—even Ge...

  35.3 kms, Sept 18, 2021 The next morning, the Traveler gets up and sets his sights to the east. Today the real Svaneti adventure begins. Here he will follow the Tskhenistskali River upstream all day, stay at a guesthouse overnight, and tomorrow climb up towards the 2,600 meter Zagari Pass, the “high point” of the Traveler's Journey through the Caucasus. That area looks very isolated and probably can have dangerous weather even in summertime. It's quite possible there will be not traffic at all... so the Traveler knows he needs to plan ahead and think through possible challenge ahead of time. He isn't geared up for camping in the cold, so he knows he really should avoid staying the night up there... But today, it looks like it will still be a leisurely stroll. According to Google, there are several restaurants and guesthouses along the way... there's little traffic... Should be an easy day. The Traveler is, again, reminded not to trust Google Maps too much. Many ...